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Post by Amy F. on Nov 27, 2005 20:21:03 GMT -5
This is one of my BIGGEST issues with my cars, for some reason, so I can use all the help I can get. So can a lot of other people. So, all of you guys "in the know", post your tips and tricks here, please!
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Post by stris141 on Nov 28, 2005 1:59:52 GMT -5
I'll start with a few general ideas. If your rules allow, run the line inside the car. It's safer there. Mount it well, with some good mounting clamps. But leave enough slack, in case the body/engine shifts. Use good fuel line. And where it runs thru the firewall/body, run it thru heater/garden hose. And make a big enough hole, so it doesn't get cut, if firewall/body gets pinched. Use a good in-line fuel filter. I like the steel or plastic ones. And use good hose clamps. Mount the tank, in a safe place. We like to use a steel jeep can, held down with steel bars, on each side. We run a thick piece of flat bar, thru the handle, and one on the underside of the floor. We also made one, out of a piece of channel, that the can sets in. We run bolts with big washers, to bolt the channel down. And steel rods, again, to hold the can in.
Steve
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Post by Slam_Shifter on Nov 28, 2005 21:58:00 GMT -5
All of the above but I run all copper fuel line until I hit the fuel pump then there I use about 4" of rubber to allow some movement between line and pump. I also try to use all metal to the carb and keep an air gap between the line and the intake that way when the motor heats up the fuel line isn't soaking in the heat. That way it has less chance to vaopr lock or boil in the line. Also keep the line tucked closer to the motor so if a frame rail twists the line isn't hurt. Never anchor to a point that can bend easily either.
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Post by gwmoreland on Nov 29, 2005 19:03:40 GMT -5
on efi cars i use the fuel pump from 80's ford trucks or vans the one on the frame on the driver side you must gravity feed to it . it don't pull from the tank. thats what i have found to work
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Post by Slam_Shifter on Nov 29, 2005 19:50:34 GMT -5
I use the same thing. I bought the one for a 1989 Ford Ranger pick up with the v-6. It runs at 40 PSI and has a lifetime warranty. It was spendy though at about 75 bucks I think. Works for throttle body or multiport.
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Post by dadicted on Nov 30, 2005 17:51:53 GMT -5
u can run a gas cooler as well as a oil and tranny. run the lines inside of the car and mount ur gas tank in the middle of the back seat. run a electric fuel pump. i run one that puts anyware from 8-15psi w/ a regulator. as long as u run a carburator u wont have to have anything more than that.
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Post by roadkill on Dec 4, 2005 20:36:32 GMT -5
I do most of the same things as Steve but I run my fuel hose through conduit up to the fuel pump.
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Post by chryslerfat on Dec 9, 2005 20:46:43 GMT -5
Use some type of racing fuel like Turbo Blue believe it or not the motor will run cooler than on pump gas.
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Post by maxcarnage on Dec 16, 2005 7:59:45 GMT -5
pay attention to the year of your car....Not exactly what year it was they started making changes to unleaded, but running unleaded gas in an older car that requires leaded fuel, can end your race early.
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Post by chryslerfat on Dec 16, 2005 9:21:33 GMT -5
There is a lead additive that you can add to the fuel for this max carnage.
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Post by doba75 on Dec 19, 2005 4:02:31 GMT -5
I run all rubber lines through heater hose, metal lines next to the motor will cause vapor lock when the motor heats up.
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Post by chryslerfat on Dec 21, 2005 22:31:59 GMT -5
The shows I run at are all steel lines except for connections at the tank and fuel pump.
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Post by chryslerfat on Dec 21, 2005 23:34:09 GMT -5
Another thing is run a 2bbl rochester on your chevy the mixture jets tend to stick on hard hits in a q-jet.
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Post by dadicted on Jan 4, 2006 18:50:41 GMT -5
i love the rochester 2bbls. i had to buy one from shorty for that reason. lol.
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Post by Amy F. on Feb 24, 2006 13:30:25 GMT -5
Ok, what do you guys think is better: steel boat tank, or racing fuel cell? We've been having problem after problem, specifically with my cars, with the fuel systems. I'm hoping to correct that, with a fuel cell, since it can't rust. Thoughts? Suggestions??
Oh, in case anyone was wondering, when the actual "separation" occurs, MY CARS ARE GOING WITH ME!! lol Whether he likes it, or not! lol
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Post by dadicted on Feb 28, 2006 3:23:18 GMT -5
use the steel boat tank, do some searches on the diffrent types of fuel. derby motors wont run as well on the new type of gas that is now being formated. when the bill was passed for oil cumpanys to make some changes in the quality of fuel they sell it just trickeled down very fast. i know that there is some additive to the fuel that is sold now that will make it more like it use to be.
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Post by kidcrash911 on Feb 28, 2006 9:57:58 GMT -5
Until recently I have always used a steel boat tank, and yes they can rust!
What I do is clean the tanks out at the beginning of the season with a bunch of bb's tossed into the tank and shake like mad. Then I run a clear plastic in line fuel filter, and keep an eye on it. I may change filters 3 or 4 times a season. The great thing about the clear ones is you can see when the fuel is flowing.
Now I use a 5 gallon steel tank that is made just for derbies. It's got 4 mounting points welded to it, so you just bolt it down, attach your lines, and go. I do have them for sale in the classifieds section.
If you run a bunch of different compacts, or even fuel injected big cars, I have a system that might help you.
Go out and buy a VW bus fuel pump from an 80s VW Bus, and fuel pressure regulator. The pump is an in-line pump, and puts out about 90lbs of pressure. That will cover the entire spectrum of pressures for any car you run. Then just use your regulator to dial in the correct pressure for the car you are running. With this setup you can run the same tank/line/pump setup in every car.
Total cost to buy the parts is right around $125 from any parts store.
Hope that helps!
Steve
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Post by stris141 on Feb 28, 2006 15:47:28 GMT -5
Amy, We used 5gal steel jeep cans. Yes, they did rust. But what we did, the last couple years, is pull them out, at end of season. We then drain all the gas out, and let dry, with the cap off. Then stored them out of the weather. The tanks that Steve sells, look pretty good, if you're in the market for a new one. Fuel cells are great, but a bit pricy, I believe. But no matter which you use, do like Steve said, and run a fuel filter. Plastic works, but we like the steel ones. They're cheap enough, to replace after each derby.
Steve
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Post by dadicted on Mar 1, 2006 12:23:18 GMT -5
why would u want that much pressure. i buy one that will give out between 5 and 15 psi and never have a problem. i do run a regulator, but it always seems to leak. if u have that much pressure ur carb wont be able to hold it all back and if it does then pressure will build up and u will have a very high chance of fuel spraying at the connections, one of which is up by the carb, where the pressure will build up first. that would be a great thing to do have gas get sprayed on a extreamly hot engion w/ red headers.
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Post by stris141 on Mar 1, 2006 13:57:43 GMT -5
I think Steve was talking about fuel injected cars. They, of course, take more pressure to run. But yes, if you have a carb, you don't need anywhere near that amount. Just a cheap aftermarket pump will work fine. Better yet, if you can, run a manual type pump.
Steve
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Post by chris426 on Mar 1, 2006 17:09:48 GMT -5
i run a 5 gallon plastic marine tank, i cover it with a piece of metal, it's the only tank that i've used that don't vapor lock, and i run an eletric fuel pump 5.5-9psi, a little weak, but i ran it on 2bbl does pretty good, the mechanical pump wouldn't work on my car, i had some of the same problems you are talking about amy, so i ran an electric pump inside the car, also u can get high pressure fuel injection hose, it cost about 5 bucks a foot, but it's alot higher pressure than standard 3/8 fuel line, and it won't pinch on u or suck shut as easy.
this year i am gonna go to a 4bbl carb with a small cam, and i'm gonna get a little bigger electric pump i got a holley "red" electric pump i'm gonna put on it this year
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Post by kidcrash911 on Mar 1, 2006 19:43:56 GMT -5
why would u want that much pressure. i buy one that will give out between 5 and 15 psi and never have a problem. i do run a regulator, but it always seems to leak. if u have that much pressure ur carb wont be able to hold it all back and if it does then pressure will build up and u will have a very high chance of fuel spraying at the connections, one of which is up by the carb, where the pressure will build up first. that would be a great thing to do have gas get sprayed on a extreamly hot engion w/ red headers. fuel injected compacts all run on different pressures, mustangs, and fords in general being some of the higher pressured models. If you run several compacts a year, and don't use the stock tank, then you need to buy a new in line fuel pump for each car. With a setup like i described, you can use the same setup for each car and only buy one pump and a regulator, instead of several different pumps a season. Understand? |
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Post by Shorty Thompson on Mar 11, 2006 18:32:22 GMT -5
Proof read a lot of really good information here . I see that certian issues haven't been addressed to well though . Such as return lines to your prefered fuel cells/tanks . I strongly suggest that you look at what you use carefully and make sure you have 1 incase you need it .
Fuelcell vs. Boat tanks " which is safer "
Fuel cells are without a doubt . Their design has been tested for even roll overs . Boat tanks haven't . you'll need to address the vent area of your tanks as well . I'm thinking that when you run out of fuel , and there is still plenty of fuel in the tank then your vent is the culprit . It will disguise itself in many different ways , and confuse the hell out of you . Make you run hot aswell .
I would also like to address that you shouldn't rerun gasline from last years season as well . I mean rubber gasline to be precise . Rubber has a tendency to get hard , break down inside , and can give you carbureator problems if the particles are small enough .
Thanx
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Post by phatboy88 on Jun 6, 2007 8:22:01 GMT -5
ok heres what i use. i run a stock size fuel line like a 3/8" and i run it threw that flexible conduit from like home depo i run the conduit from tank to fuel pump and i dont bolt it down to the floor inside the car anyways . i put a zip strip around the fuel line and zip strip it to the frame by the a-arm. the reason i do that is cause the conduit has some flex to it so if the frame bends the line will flex with and it keeps the line away from the motor and i dont bolt it down due to flex of the cars that way it dont rip away from the tank or pump and i run it in a straight as possible line as i can.
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Post by dadicted on Jun 7, 2007 19:54:58 GMT -5
or you could just run it threw garden hose, and loosly zip tie it threw a hole in the firewall and have a extra little amount sitting next to you just in case when the front goes up you need a little extra hose.
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